Magic Sofas and Elk Steaks
“There’s something so quiet and cosy about a snow-covered
town, like it’s been nicely tucked up and put to sleep”, I was thinking to
myself stepping off the ski train from Oslo, the none-too-large capital of Norway.
The small snow-covered town where I found myself on this dark evening in March,
shivering a bit in the below zero temperatures, was called Geilo and although significantly
smaller than the Norwegian capital, with only some 2000 souls to its name, it
still manages to be one of the country’s key ski centres with no less than 39
slopes, 20 ski-lifts and 220 km’s worth of cross-country tracks. It might have
looked sleepy under its fluffy blanket of white stuff upon my arrival, but as
it turned out there was plenty of life in this 100-year resort, nestled amidst
stunning mountain scenery alongside the Ustedalsfjord, some 4 hours north of
Oslo.
Ski tourism has formed an integral part of Geilo ever since
the late 19th century, with the first slalom race held in 1935 and
the first ski-lift opened in 1954. When the railway arrived in 1909 this also
heralded a new era for tourism and to coincide with its opening, one of Geilo’s
most impressive hotels, Dr Holm’s, also opened up its doors. On the surface,
Geilo just looks like a tiny village huddled below formidable mountains, but
there is something here that not just takes people in, but also keeps bringing
them back. It’s no coincidence that this has been one of Norway ’s most
lasting tourism success stories. Geilo has a lot to offer.
The ski season often starts as early as the end of November
and then carries on right through to mid- or late April. Although the winters
are pretty long, not to mention pretty cold, this really lends itself to
perfect ski conditions. During my stay in March temperatures hovered between 0
and -5, with glorious sunshine from a bright blue sky, followed by the odd
“snowpour” and some wickedly howling winds. There’s definitely less need for
artificial snow in this area and the landscape all around me was covered in
some 2 metres of powder, the nearby fjord frozen solid in most places.
As a resort, Geilo is particularly good for both children
and the beginner to intermediate skier, something I was very grateful for,
having had quite a lapse since I last stood on skis. This doesn’t make for a
boring stay though, as there’s plenty of variety whatever your abilities with
good options for the more advanced and adventurous skier, and
best of all, there are hardly ever any queues. Despite the resort’s popularity there’s
a blissful sense of space, nobody jostling to get on the lifts, nobody cutting
you up or ruining your time on the slopes.
Many of the lifts have the latest in high-tech equipment
with, for example, heated seats. Be warned though, some of the safety mechanisms
can be a bit hard to manipulate, something I discovered when I had the whole
seat to myself, only to find that I didn’t quite have the muscle power to bring
down the safety bar around me. Soon I found myself flying above the tree tops
without anything keeping me in place – rather like flying on a magic sofa! This
is not to say that they’re not safety-conscious at Geilo. Normally they’re very
good at strapping you in, but as a one-off adventure it was quite nice, given
that I couldn’t really have fallen out of my seat any more than you’re likely
to fall out of your own sofa at home.
Geilo is a good place to break yourself in gently if you’re
a bit rusty and soon you’ll find yourself back in the swing of things.
Alternatively if you’re getting the hang of skiing for the first time, this is
also the place to do it. All the ski instructors teach new skiers in their
native language, whether it’s English, German, French or any of the
Scandinavian languages. In fact language in Geilo is never really an issue,
English is so widely spoken and that makes life very easy. It also means that
being sociable isn’t such a struggle and you can mix and mingle with visitors
and locals alike. As a town, Geilo is used to tourism and very much at ease
with its role as a resort. People are friendly and helpful and there’s a large
seasonal population, from many parts of Scandinavia
and the rest of the world, who live here during the ski season.
Downhill skiing, although undoubtedly the most popular
activity, is just one of the many things on offer and as most people stay here
a week, there’s plenty of time to try out the others. Easier on your knees and
thighs, with far fewer broken limbs on average, cross-country skiing is still
good exercise, if in a more gentle, less exhilarating fashion. Gliding along
the well made-up tracks can take you all around the Ustedalsfjord and beyond –
in fact with so many tracks to choose from you could easily spend the whole
week exploring, drinking in the scenery at a more leisurely pace. Many
Norwegians prefer cross-country to downhill and often take enormous picnics for,
as they put it, “going on tour”.
Snowboarders are also in for a treat as Geilo has one of Norway ’s biggest terrain parks and Northern Europe ’s largest half pipe – the Super Pipe at
Fugleleiken. There are three snowboard areas to choose from and this has
recently been the focus of big investments in Geilo. Myself, not feeling that
brave, opted for a snowy, leisurely walk around the Ustedalsfjord – yes, it’s
a fjord, but you can go around it – crossing the frozen, icy waters to the
other side. As I was crossing curiosity got the better of me and I strayed from
the marked path to see if the snow would carry me. Do this at your own peril!
Two seconds later I’d sunk down to my waist in the fresh powder and had to
crawl and scamper my way back up on my hands and knees, panting in a most
unseemly fashion.
After such exhausting adventures there was nothing for it, I
was simply forced to spend some time recovering in one of the resort’s best
bars, inside Vestlia hotel, right on the slopes. Après-ski in Norway can come
across as a bit subdued, at least in Geilo, but that’s not to say it’s boring.
In fact, given that most people speak English, this makes it quite easy to
socialize and before I knew it I was discussing the best places to eat in Belgium with my fellow tablemate, an ethical
banker from Ghent ,
who was specializing in those of us who are self-employed. Heartening financial
advice for a freelancer like myself was coming my way absolutely free of charge
and just as well – if there is one thing that does break the bank in Norway
it is the booze. This really shouldn’t put you off as most things are otherwise
reasonably priced including food and accommodation. The fact that you’re
drinking in style also softens the blow a bit.
Bars in Geilo are plentiful and quite a few of them are up
the actual slopes, although these aren’t allowed to serve alcohol until after 3pm,
presumably to avoid nasty accidents among fellow skiers. In my humble opinion
though, the very best, the ultimate
bar, is to be found, not on the slopes, but in the gorgeous, towering white manor
house hovering over town, perched just in the right place to give you the best
views of the mountainous surroundings – Dr Holm’s Hotel. This hotel has had a
speckled history to say the least, in the 100+ years gone by since it first threw
open its doors to the public. During WWII for example, the Germans took over
the whole building, using one part as an administrative centre and the other as
a French-style bordello where their submarine personnel could come and “relax”
when they were off duty.
Although no longer a bordello – far from it – there’s
something exceedingly decadent about Dr Holm’s, rather like a plush mansion or
country estate and the first floor hunting lodge-style bar does induce you to
sit back, relax and simply soak up the atmosphere. The place has the feel of
days gone by, it’s oldie-worldy and charming, but posh rather than quaint. Although
the bar is a great place to chill out after a day’s hard work on the piste, Dr
Holm’s renowned spa is perhaps even better. One of the largest and best equipped
spas in Norway, it boasts 2 pools, Jacuzzi, sauna and a Turkish steam bath
with a whole host of treatments on offer.
Despite its size, or rather lack of it, you’re spoilt for
choice in Geilo. Activities, accommodation, bars and of course, lots and lots
of snow. Restaurants on the other hand, are somewhat more thin on the ground,
but the ones there are make up for in quality what they lack in options. Yes,
there are the ubiquitous pizza places (Peppe’s Pizza being the most difficult
of all to avoid) and you can get your burgers, Dr Holm’s has even got a Bowl ‘n
Dine, but Geilo is also a good place for the more adventurous eater who’d like
to try out some Norwegian specialities. As I didn’t want to be a culinary
chicken I’d made a vow to only have Norwegian food during my stay and this led
to some exciting discoveries. E.g. reindeer meat can be good in a tortilla wrap
and potato pancakes needn’t be stodgy. The highlight was a Norwegian restaurant
called Hallingstuene that just looked
impossibly snug, both from the outside and once indoors. The menu was
definitely meat heavy, but elk steak in a chanterelle mushroom sauce with
mashed potatoes and lingonberry (similar to cranberry) took some beating. Outside
the wind was howling, whipping up a tremendous blizzard while I was inside by a
crackling fire devouring my elk. Bliss...
Not all animals are munched and chewed though. Geilo offers
husky safaris, as well as reindeer and horse-sleigh rides. There’s also a
chance to sign up for a beginner’s kite-skiing or snow-kiting course, something
that’s become increasingly popular in the area. For such a small place there is
great variety in Geilo and all things ski and snow are right at the top of the
yearly agenda. As Einar Øyo, general manager at one of the ski centres, Geilo
Taubane, puts it: “In Geilo we have great winters, one month of really bad
skiing and then summer.” Summer is not a bad time either, as the place is taken
over by mountain bike enthusiasts, but that’s a different story. For now,
suffice to say that it’s winter that reigns supreme here and that’s what keeps
people coming back year after year for their annual fix of piste and powder,
but also for peace and pristine nature, miles from pollution and everyday
hassles. Geilo has that winter wonderland feel long after the snows of the Alps have melted – it is special.
Further information about skiing in Geilo: www.geilo.no.
Further information on visiting Norway from Innovation Norway (the
Norwegian Tourist Board): www.visitnorway.com
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